Monday, February 21, 2011

An Acquired Vocabulary

    I left the "Eating Out" section of this book with a strong disdain for any kind of fancy eating. Especially French restaurants in the late 1940's. I traveled through the vast majority of the pieces without any ground to understand what the dishes the critics were talking about consisted of, why they were so agitated by the tack French cuisine was taking. I felt almost no empathy for A. J. Liebling when he exclaims "You take me for a jackass!" after realizing a loved restaurant had gone down the drain.
    I should take into account that most of the pieces I found uninteresting and pretentious were written before 1975. The conspicuous consumption and elitism of those pieces must have been a result of the times. I've read some articles in the New Yorker and, at least in its modern incarnation, the writers seem to revel in presenting the complicated mess of their subject in a concise and interesting way. A good writer draws the reader in with the cunning explanation of the intricacies of their topic but those articles about France just seemed to be written for gourmands who already care about shifts in French haute-cuisine and wine vintages. Nearly all of the "Eating Out" section was dedicated to French cuisine, something I know next to nothing about. Instead of talking about specifically how the "amazing" French cuisine came about or how the everyday Frenchman/woman eats and how that related to the haute-cuisine, they seemed too caught up in their own decadence. They seemed to live in their own world of gastronomy and speak their own jargony language.
Ahh, a good old-fashioned beefsteak   
    I did love Anthony Bourdain's piece about the behind-the-scenes of restaurant. His description is so fresh and his exaggerated voice keeps me reading to see what crude or ridiculous statement he'll make next. Reading the perspective of someone very much a restaurant cook in the midst of so many food critics and "gastronomes" was incredibly refreshing. Even though he may be pretentious about vegetarians and buffets, he manages to make himself more understandable and identifiable to the reader than the rich men who fly over to France to eat their fills of the country's cuisine.
    I also loved the first piece in the collection about the "beefsteaks." Even though the article was written in 1939, I thought the author did an amazing job of showing us the excesses of the beefsteaks. The author seemed to have that same drive to create a vivid picture of a practice or aspect of life that I've come to associate with good writing and the modern New Yorker magazine. The author didn't seem to revel in his own excess. To me, he was just portraying the practice of beefsteaks in its cultural context.

Sunday, February 20, 2011

CYOA: Urban farming

    Looking for alternatives to feeding into the American industrial food industry, I decided to research urban agriculture  in Detroit. I had heard some things about it from a few of my friends but I had never really looked into it myself. I ended up finding this video about the DBCFSN or Detroit Black Community Food Security Network. Here's their website.
    From their website:


The Detroit Reality:
1. Many Detroiters do not have a grocery store within a mile of the homes
2. "Fast food" has practically replaced home cooked meals in many Black households
3. Detroit's majority African population is dependent on others to feed it


     This organization identifies so many of the things that we talked about in Detroit and are taking extremely active grassroots measures to change things around them. They've started a co-op and created a farm  in the largest park in Detroit. The organization does focus on Black people in Detroit (81% of Detroit is Black) but I think that their ideology and methods are applicable across race. They really stress taking ownership over your food and working for yourself to create food and a lifestyle that is inherently yours and not something forced on you by another person or corporation. Here's another take on the situation, a more corporate one. The head of the DBCFSN, Malik Yakini, is quoted in the article as saying "I'm concerned about the corporate takeover of the urban agriculture movement in Detroit."
 
Things to Ponder:
  • How related is our sense of general autonomy with our choice of food?
  • Is a corporate or grassroots method of urban farming more effective?
  • Does a corporate or industrialized agricultural process inevitably lose some something important in a smaller scale farm like Joel Salatin's?

Thursday, February 17, 2011

Film and Print and Food

Good Ol' Joel comin' atcha
through the magic of film.
    I definitely felt more emotionally moved after watching Food Inc. I'm not sure how much more it affected me than The Omnivore's Dilemma though. I think the largest difference was in the styles between the two different pieces. Pollan left me wanting to research and know more about the industrial food system but Food Inc. just left me lacking somehow. I think that the thought behind Pollan's book is what hit me and really made me want to understand what he was saying. His approach to telling us about the industrial food system seems to really value exhaustive research and a mostly humble presentation of that research. Food Inc. on the other hand really hits you over the head with its information and is much more forceful in its presentation.
     I definitely felt more of a kinship with Pollan than I did with whoever created Food Inc. I do think that it was a really valuable visual look at the food industry but I thought that it tried a little too hard. It definitely added some pieces of the picture for me and the emotions it elicited with the images and music are valuable because the subject needs some representation in popular culture but the film seemed like it knew what it was doing too well. That I think Food Inc. tried too hard may sound kind of strange, but I loved Pollan's self-conscious and constantly questioning approach to interrogating the food system. Food Inc. just came off as something that was trying to get you to think in a certain way and I don't like that. I thought Pollan's presentation of his own experience with not that much intentional persuasion was in fact more persuasive than Food Inc.'s style of presentation.
    I guess that the two forms of media are two different sides of the same coin. Film lends itself more to sensationalist representations of problems in society while the book works better as a more drawn out, inquisitive expose of the material. I can see many more college students/people with short attention spans becoming inspired by Food Inc or motivated to do something because of it. Not to sound super pretentious but The Omnivore's Dilemma seems like a more mature form of exposing the food industry's industry. That's too harsh I think. I guess the conclusion that I've come to is that Food Inc.'s main appeal are the visual aspects of it; those animations and the graphs inside of pigs. The Omnivore's Dilemma's attraction for me revolves around the narrative and the draw of someone taking us through the process of discovering the true nature of the food industry. It's stupid to say one is "more mature". Each of them appeal to a different audience and I guess that I just identified more with Pollan than that really passionate guy who made Fast Food Nation. I loooved Joel Salatin in both places though. His passion and strength to do something and even create his own farm were great and incredibly inspiring. Plus his suspenders are AMAZING.

Sunday, February 13, 2011

     When first thinking about this assignment, a myriad of potential dishes ran through my head. My usual fare of mac and cheese was the first thing that came to mind and the first thing to be rejected. No, I thought, that's too usual, too Kraft for a unique meal. Next was chicken wings, something many of you now know is my culinary shangri-la. Too risky, I told myself. There's no way that anything I could make would measure up to my demanding standards. I had to have something closer to me, something I'd never had in a restaurant, something that was great enough to justify an entire meal with it as its center. Finally, I knew. Chicken piccata.
     Chicken piccata was a staple of my father's cooking and one of the few dishes that I loved and requested as often as I could back at home. Soft chicken with crisp sauted breading and the important part, a lemon juice, white wine, chicken broth and caper sauce. With the chicken, my father always made a plate of sauted green beans and almond slivers in lemon juice. This aspect of the meal could prove more difficult than the chicken. I remember my father either undercooking or burning the almonds at least three times before he managed to get the dish just right. I figured that the delicacy needed to perfect the almonds along with the green beans would be too much for my novice cooking abilities and so I opted out of the finicky almonds.
     Now that I had my meal, I needed a person (or a few people) to share it with. I thought and thought and, after realizing that the majority of my friends were vegetarian, decided on my close friend Ethan. After spending nine months in Israel together and sharing countless teenager-cooked meals together there, I figured he would be the most receptive to my culinary excursion from Kraft noodles and bagels with cream cheese. Another bonus; Ethan will almost never pass up a free meal.
     Procuring the ingredients for my meal was a relatively simple task but one nonetheless fraught with tension. Most of the ingredients were simple; chicken, oil, beans, lemons, eggs. The problems came when I ticked “chicken” off of my grocery list and came to bread crumbs and capers. The amounts of these two ingredients that my recipe called for were miniscule in comparison to the bountiful containers in the supermarket. My brow furrowed when I realized I'd have to pay five dollars to use a tenth of both the container of bread crumbs and capers. What college student uses capers in any kind of meal? Oy vey. Sighing deeply at my frugality, I purchased both and hoped that I'd find some way to enjoy eating breaded capers in the near future.
     With all the ingredients assembled, it was time to start cooking. A few days earlier I had asked my dad to send me the recipe for his chicken piccata and he obliged, sending me the scanned page of “Dad's Own Cookbook,” complete with his written notes about variations on the dish and when to pound the chicken. Thinking ahead, I had defrosted the chicken in the fridge for about half a day before I started cooking my meal. When it came time to pull it out of the fridge and begin the long process of readying it for cooking, it was still a little frosted. I ended up letting it sit out for another couple of hours before undertaking the first step in creating chicken piccata, pounding. After wrapping the chicken in cellophane, I laid into it with a rolling pin, flattening it to about half its former thickness. According to my father, this was so that it cooked faster. I just had fun taking some of my sixth-week blues out on a piece of inanimate meat. Next, I “dredged” the pieces of chicken in beaten eggs and then breadcrumbs. At this point the chicken seemed pretty gross. Just slimy pink meat with crust of bread crumbs. Well, I thought, the only thing to do is throw them in the pan and see what happens. As the breasts sizzled in the frying pan, a wonderful cooked chicken aroma mixed with the heartiness of frying bread crumbs and olive oil filled the air. Yum! Things were going according to plan.
     When both breasts had turned a golden brown, I took them out of the pan and poured my pre-prepared mixture of capers, chicken broth, white wine, and lemon juice into the same pan to cook down for around ten minutes. From my experience, this sauce is what really makes the whole dish come together. The sourness and cooked down chicken flavor work amazingly with the soft yet crunchy chicken breasts. The best part is near the end of the meal when all the sauce has been absorbed by the breadcrumbs and your last few bites of chicken have the whole shebang together inside them.
     I did hit a snag with the sauce. The directions say that you're only supposed to cook the mixture down for 45 seconds, but after those 45 seconds my sauce hadn't achieved the strongly-scented brown thickness that I remembered from my father's piccata. I decided to cook it down for another five minutes but I had to add more of all the ingredients in the sauce so that I'd still have enough sauce after everything cooked down.
     Where have the green beans been this whole time you ask? Boiling in a pot that I had prepared at the beginning of the meal. After they boiled for around five minutes I took them out, and delegated the rest of their process to Ethan because I was busy with the sauce. He strained them, washed them in cold water, and cooked them in a pan with butter. As the sauce finished, we juiced half a lemon on top of them and moved the whole meal out to the living room to finally be consumed.
     The chicken was wonderful despite some slight differences from what I was used too. My father either bought smaller breasts than I did or cut the ones he had in half, but our servings were gigantic. I'm not sure how, but the chicken was cooked perfectly through even though I wasn't watching them very carefully when I was dashing around the kitchen. The sauce was great too, very lemony. It really deepened my enjoyment of the chicken. The green beans' sweetness and crunch was a perfect compliment to the soft chicken and the tart lemon in the sauce and the beans. I couldn't get many specifics out of Ethan but he said that he really enjoyed the whole meal.
     The only problems we had were slight. The sauce could have been thicker and less lemony, the breasts could have been thinner or more manageable, and the chicken had cooled by the time we had finished cooking our green beans and sauce. Also, there was a lot of lemon in our meal. I'm totally fine with this and even enjoyed all the tartness, but I'm not sure how the whole meal would go over with someone who doesn't love lemon as much as I do.
     With the chicken safely in our bellies, we turned to the monumental task of doing the mountain of dishes that amassed during the frantic scramble to cook one of my favorite meal. My dad's notes written on the recipe page and the texture and appearance of the breaded chicken brought me back home again, at least for one night.

The Recipe

Wednesday, February 9, 2011

Second Draft: A Mile-Wide Grin

     "We're going to clean out the Three Rivers sewer system," one of our counselors told us, stifling a barely perceptible grin. "Make sure that you all wear clothes that you can get dirty in."
     "They're lying," Sam whispered to the seventeen of us as we gathered outside the white vans that would allegedly take us to the sewers. "The counselors always say we're doing something gross when we leave camp like this," he said. "Last summer they said we were going to an old folks' home."
     "Where are we going then, Sam?" asked Maya.
     Sam smiled to himself and remained quiet.
     This statement of fact by a knowledgeable camper and subsequent interrogation by the less knowledgeable one is a common exchange at Camp Tavor. Because of the esoteric nature of many of Tavor's traditions, new campers are often in the dark until an older or more experienced camper deems them worthy of an explanation.
     “Come on Sam, just tell us already,” chimed in another camper from the back of the van as we turned down the long dirt trail that winds its way through the forest marking the edge of camp. The road heaves up and down past fallen trees and rusted metal fencing until you reach the first marker of civilization, the corn field. The field is always referred to as “the corn field” even when the farmer who tills it has planted a crop of dinky soy bean plants instead of the towering corn stalks that, at night, provide a much anticipated maze into which only the coolest of counselors take their campers to play a terrifying medley of hide-and-seek and tag called “Come Dance With the Devil in the Pale Moonlight.” As the vans heaved over the road's last hill and hung suspended, the trees to the left of the road narrowed into a sparse line, and the final symbol of civilizations' reappearance was revealed, the grey asphalt of A.L. Jones, the paved two-lane highway marking the beginning of the rural outskirts of Three Rivers.
     Ten minutes after the vans turned onto A.L. Jones, they round another bend onto North Main Street. Sam recognized the street name and a mile-wide grin spread across his face.
     “Come on Sam, tell us where we're going,” I implored. At 11, this was my first year at camp and I was aching to know what the big surprise was.
     “Goldies,” Sam finally replied, grin spreading even wider. “We're going to Goldies.”
    As the vans slowed to turn into the parking lot, the white and green sign came into focus: “Goldies” in black-lined gold bubble letters. “Pizza*Subs*Burgers" above the gold script, and the most important words below in capital letters, "ICE CREAM."
     We piled out of the vans and took our places at the picnic tables waiting outside, the giant umbrellas poking out of the middle of the tables like palm trees a welcome respite from the humid heat of the summer.
All right,” said a counselor, “this is how it works. Four people inside at a time, when someone comes out, another person goes in”. As a camper, the inside of Goldies was mysterious, somewhere we only ventured to pick out what kind of ice cream we wanted or to use the bathroom. We always scampered back outside to eat our ice cream, the summer heat made the coolness of the ice cream that much more refreshing.
    As kids, ice cream was all we ever ate at Goldies, nothing else on the menu interested us. Looking back, we were hardly empathetic towards the lactose-intolerant kids who never got to experience the wonder of yellow cake batter or peppermint patty ice cream. They were limited to a box of french fries. The scoops of ice cream were enormous to our eleven, twelve, thirteen year-old eyes. No one could match our monstrous appetites. Even a small serving was too big for some of our sugar-headache-wary counselors. No ice cream was too large, too sugary, too cold for us. We scarfed down frozen delight with reckless abandon, monstrous grins on our faces the whole time. My personal favorite was “Peppermint Patty,” the devilish transformation of a York Peppermint Patty into a rich ice cream form.
     Goldies ice cream and I had been close friends for years but my more mature and passionate love affair with everything in the restaurant began in 2009, my first year as a counselor at Camp Tavor. The summer was one of exhaustion and excitement. The amount of work and planning that we had to do was inversely proportional to the amount of sleep we received and thus our general well-being. I soon discovered that everyone needs a break from the always-on mentality of camp. Luckily, the wise staff in the past had established a system of break taking that proves effective still today. Everyone is allotted one whole day, one half day, and two nights off per three- or four-week session. Counselors used these breaks to go out to eat at restaurants in Three Rivers, maybe go to a movie, and finally retire to the corn field at the edge of camp to swig burning mouthfuls of apple brandy distilled at Hubbard's, the nearby farm.
     This constant stress and responsibility as a counselor was camp from a totally different view point than I had experienced it before. When I was a camper, things just happened, we went to activities and had fun with no knowledge of the fact that someone had to spend time (precious, precious time) planning them. Now that I was on the other side, the work that went into making camp run smoothly became clear. Every event needed to be planned, every outing required med forms, first-aid kits, and wrangling two or three certified drivers from their busy camp lives. The real stress came from balancing all of these activities with the task of dealing with the fallout from the petty arguments and insults your campers threw around. Taking a break from all that was one of the best experiences at camp. That's not to say I didn't enjoy being with my kids, just that even the most dedicated counselor needs a break from all that stress and lack of sleep.
     The cornfield was something else thrown into a new light when I became a counselor. It wasn't a maze of gigantic stalks anymore, the corn was still there but now it inhabited the periphery of my perception. What mattered now was the circle of chairs and the few flashlights illuminating the beading cans of beer and amber bottles of brandy being passed around the circle. I can proudly say that I never got so drunk that I couldn't still be an effective counselor when I returned to camp in the morning. I'm not sure that I can say the same of some of the other counselors though. Every few weeks stories would percolate around about vomiting in the counselor's area. For the most part though, we didn't let our relaxation intrude into our kids' summers.
     Being among my fellow counselors on my first break, all of whom had shared my same wonderful experience with Goldies ice cream, we naturally decided to explore the other fare that the restaurant could offer. What a decision. The experience of driving out of camp, not packed into giant white vans, but tooling around in crappy pre-college student sedans and minivans was a new and thrilling one. We screeched into parking spaces outside Goldies and walked into the cool air conditioned interior. Always focused on the steaming ice cream buckets behind the counter directly across from the door, I had never noticed what the inside of Goldies looked like. It was a diner, tables and chairs, booths along the walls, nothing fancy.
We walked up to the counter, and I, thinking I'd try a totally new meal, ordered both a Southwest Barbecue Burger and an order of eight chicken wings. It was love at first sight. My whole meal was $8, perfect for a near-broke camp counselor. Let's begin with the burger. Three onions rings atop a ½ pound burger covered with American and Pepperjack cheese, pickles and a hearty helping of BBQ sauce.
     Next, the dish that, after eating for the first time two years ago, I will now give nearly anything for, Goldies chicken wings. Slathered, and I mean slathered in BBQ and Tabasco sauce. These wings are gigantic. Goldies was my first experience with them, so I had no frame of reference for the average size of chicken wings. Looking back, these were enormous. When eating normal wings, you scarf a couple down without even realizing it but I tasted each and every of those eight wings that I devoured that night. The spicy sweet punch of the sauce against the crunch and texture of the breading and the soft smoothness of the chicken beneath was unbelievable. I burned through them like a hot knife through butter. Or a hungry camp counselor through a plate of incredible wings. This was an adult meal. My first introduction to the wonders of BBQ sauce and expanses of barbecued meat. There is nothing childish about sucking the last morsel of saucy meat off of the bone, tossing the bare wing atop the mountainous pile of its companions, grinning contentedly, and gently reclining so as not to lose the meal you've just ingested. After a lengthy digestive rest, I staggered to the bathroom to wash the barbecue and Tabasco sauce off of my hands. I was still smiling when the jet of burning water from the faucet scorched my hands the same color as the sauce. Walking out into the windy summer night, my red hands burnt with the same feeling as my throat soon would be as the apple brandy we were going back into the cornfield to drink scorched its way into my stomach.

Wednesday, February 2, 2011

Organicism

Too. Much. Organic. Food.
   There has been so much slaughtering of animals in this class so far! I can't say I dislike it though, its such a fresh view point on the way our food is prepared. That distance from what we eat and how it's rendered edible that Pollan talks about seems like the core of the current state of America's industrial food system. A big thing that this chapter stressed was that even though the "organic" label seems like an antidote to this distance, it may not be. We may assume that anything labeled "organic" has been grown or raised on a small family farm in non-industrial fields, but Pollan's research and narrative seems to say otherwise. Apparently, organic farming has been industrialized to large extent, at least in the specific couple of farm that Pollan visited. I found myself asking the same question that Pollan was: are industrial and organic mutually exclusive?
   To me, there seems to be so much ideology and non-traditional business logic involved in organic farming. The reduction of farming to a simple input-output system masks the true depth of farming and ecological creation. The focused awareness on the beauty and bounty of nature seems to run contrary to industrialization. Or at least to what Pollan described at the farms he visited. Those farms were simply industrial farms with little organic variables and additions tacked on; free range areas, organic feed. To me, the real beauty and benefit of organic farming comes from trying to understand the cycles in nature and working with them to create healthier and more delicious food and not from shoving parts of those cycles into out in/out factory system.
   I guess the question that arises from that is how effective are the small organic farms like Joel Salatin's at actually changing the current situation. I think that I agree with Pollan's statement that every organic-industrial farm is better than a simply industrial farm. His logic works in terms of an in/out kind of mindset but these farms still seem like they're selling out. I see a core of respect and admiration for nature at the core of farms like Salatin's. The industrial-organic farms seem to be simply missing this. Even though their methods are organic and more sustainable than the purely industrial alternative, I still see them as buying into that industrial and dehumanizing mindset of the larger industrial farms. Ideally there would be only small independent farms like Salatin's, or some sort of larger conglomerate that still operates like Salatin's in terms of its understanding and emulation of nature. I don't know if that's even possible though. Is there a way of feeding America without a huge centralized food distribution system? I have no idea.